Concrete pool restoration & renovation · Niagara RegionRestore. Renovate.Reimagine your concrete pool.
From premium glass mosaic tile and professional epoxy coatings to structural repairs and complete pool rehabilitation, Pool Busters provides specialized concrete pool restoration services throughout the Niagara Region.
Residential & commercial · Serving St. Catharines, Niagara Falls, Welland, Fonthill and the Niagara Region · (289) 929-7665
Illustrative render
01 Our restoration services
Every part of a concrete pool, restored properly.
Concrete pool restoration for homes and commercial facilities across the Niagara Region — from the waterline to the structure itself.
Illustrative render
ResidentialCommercial
Concrete pool sandblasting & epoxy painting
Failing coatings are removed by abrasive blasting, the concrete is repaired and prepared, then a premium two-part epoxy system is applied.
Professional abrasive blasting to remove failing coatings
Repairs to surface imperfections and deterioration before coating
Premium two-part epoxy pool paint systems
Complete repainting of residential and commercial pools
Restoration of previously painted pool interiors
Our epoxy systems are selected for a target service life of up to 10 years under suitable conditions. Preparation, water chemistry and use all affect it — it isn't a guarantee.
Rebuilding a bond beam, a wall section or a skimmer takes specialized knowledge, experience and equipment — and not every pool company takes this work on. We do.
Bond beam repairs and reconstruction
Repair of deteriorated structural concrete
Restoration of damaged pool wall sections
Removal and reconstruction of complete concrete skimmer sections
Repairs related to waterline deterioration and aging structures
Our preparation process is what sets our work apart. Here's why a fresh coat over a failing one doesn't last — and what we do instead.
Illustrative 3D sequence
The pool today
Faded, chalking and peeling.
Underneath the visible wear are layers of older coatings that no longer hold to the concrete.
The shortcut
Pressure-wash and repaint.
It looks new at first. But a new coat can only hold as well as the layer beneath it — failing paint underneath lifts again and takes the new coat with it.
Step 1 · Abrasive blasting
Down to sound concrete.
Failing coatings are removed completely, leaving a clean, open surface profile a new coating can grip.
Step 2 · Concrete repairs
Fixed before anything is covered.
With the shell exposed, cracks, spalls and hollow areas can be found and repaired properly.
Step 3 · Two-part epoxy
A premium coating system.
Two-part epoxy goes on over the prepared surface, coat by coat, within the manufacturer's recoat and cure windows.
Restored
Built to last, not just to look new.
Cured, refilled and balanced — with a target service life of up to 10 years under suitable conditions.
Failing paintLoose flakes only; weak paint staysRemoved to sound concrete
Concrete defectsPainted overRepaired before coating
Surface profileSmooth, chalky, contaminatedClean, open profile
Coating compatibilityUnknown layers underneathOne matched system
What to expectPeeling can return quicklyA long-lasting, even finish
The coating is identified first
Epoxy, chlorinated rubber and acrylic pool paints don't mix. Knowing what's on the pool decides how it's removed and what goes on next.
Draining comes first
An empty concrete pool can be pushed upward by groundwater, so water levels are checked before draining and the pool is refilled promptly.
Blasting is high-risk work
Concrete dust contains crystalline silica. Ontario guidance calls for containment, supplied-air respiratory protection and suitable abrasives.
Moisture and cure times matter
Epoxy goes on a dry surface, within its recoat window, and cures fully before the pool is filled.
03 Premium tile & finishes
Materials chosen for water, chemicals and winters.
Try waterline tile, coping stone and interior finishes on the same pool — then see it after dark.
Illustrative colours
Colours are illustrative. Final selections are made from current product samples.
Two-part epoxyMarciteMarbelite
What it isA two-component coating that cures chemically into a hard, sealed filmTraditional white-cement and marble-dust plasterMarble-based pool plaster, common in Ontario
Look & feelSmooth, satin-gloss, choice of coloursMatte, soft white; water reads light blueFine marble texture; bright, classic
Service lifeTarget of up to 10 years under suitable conditionsTypically 7–12 years with good water chemistryTypically 7–12 years with good water chemistry
Often chosen forPreviously painted pools; colour; commercial repaint cyclesRestoring an original plaster poolRestoring an original plaster pool
04 Structural restoration expertise
The repairs other pool companies walk away from.
Bond beams, wall sections, skimmers and hydrostatic valves take specialized knowledge and equipment to rebuild properly. Explore how they fit together — and how they fail.
Select a view to explore
Illustrative model · drag to look around
The coping, waterline tile, bond beam and wall are tied together. When one deteriorates, water and movement reach the next — which is why we repair the cause, not just the crack.
{"beam":{"title":"Bond beam","does":"The thickened, steel-reinforced ring at the top of the pool wall. It carries the coping and tile and resists pressure from the deck and soil.","fails":"Water through a failed deck joint or cracked tile freezes and expands; deck movement pushes on the beam; corroding steel spalls the concrete. Coping and tile come loose.","steps":["Remove the coping and tile over the damaged section","Remove deteriorated concrete back to sound material","Treat existing steel or pin in new reinforcement","Form and rebuild the beam with structural repair concrete","Re-tile, re-set the coping and seal a proper deck joint"]},
"wall":{"title":"Pool wall","does":"The reinforced concrete shell that holds the water back — and holds the soil back when the pool is empty.","fails":"Cracks from settlement, soil movement, freeze–thaw or groundwater pressure; spalling where steel is close to the surface.","steps":["Assess the cause and whether movement is ongoing","Cut out damaged concrete to sound material","Repair or reinforce across the damaged area","Rebuild the section and restore the finish"]},
"skimmer":{"title":"Skimmer","does":"Draws water from the surface into the filtration system. Older pools often have skimmers formed right into the concrete.","fails":"Cracks open where the skimmer meets the wall — from freezing water, deck movement and bond-beam movement — and the joint starts to leak.","steps":["Saw-cut and remove the coping, tile and concrete around the skimmer","Remove the old skimmer and expose the plumbing","Set a new skimmer at the correct water level and tie in the lines","Pressure-test, then rebuild the surrounding concrete","Re-tile and re-set the coping"]},
"coping":{"title":"Coping","does":"The stone cap around the pool's edge. It protects the top of the bond beam and finishes the transition to the deck.","fails":"Loose or cracked coping and open joints let water behind the tile and into the beam, where freeze–thaw does the most damage.","steps":["Remove loose or damaged coping","Repair the bond beam beneath if needed","Re-set on a fresh mortar bed","Seal a flexible coping-to-deck joint"]},
"tile":{"title":"Waterline tile","does":"Protects the waterline — the area that sees the most sun, chemistry and ice — and gives the pool its finished look.","fails":"Absorbent tile, failed grout or adhesive not rated for submerged use lets water behind the tile; freezing pops it loose.","steps":["Remove deteriorated tile and setting material","Prepare and, where required, waterproof the substrate","Set impervious glass or porcelain mosaic with pool-rated materials","Grout with pool-rated grout"]},
"valve":{"title":"Hydrostatic relief valve","does":"A one-way valve in the pool floor over a gravel sump. When groundwater pressure under an empty pool is higher than the water inside, it opens and lets groundwater in to relieve the pressure.","fails":"Valves can clog, stick or be plugged during past work — leaving an empty pool with no relief.","steps":["Check groundwater conditions before draining","Inspect, clear or replace the valve while the pool is drained","Plan dewatering or drainage where groundwater is high"],"link":["/pages/pool-drainage-solutions","Pool drainage solutions"]},
"drain":{"title":"Main drains","does":"Floor drains at the deepest point that draw water to the pump. Modern installations use dual drains for entrapment safety.","fails":"Aging covers and assemblies, cracked housings, or leaks where the drain meets the shell.","steps":["Inspect the drain assembly while the pool is drained","Repair or replace the housing and cover","Restore the surrounding finish"],"link":["/pages/leak-detection-services","Leak detection"]}}
What it does
How damage develops
How we repair it
Usually cosmeticRepairAssessment recommended
Not every crack means the same thing. Hairlines in the finish are usually cosmetic; cracks that run through the shell, widen, offset or leak need a closer look.
{"structural":{"sev":"assess","title":"Structural crack","see":"A crack that runs through the concrete shell rather than just the finish. It may be wider, offset on one side, leak, or show rust or white leaching.","causes":["Settlement or poorly compacted base","Groundwater (hydrostatic) pressure","Freeze–thaw cycles","Soil movement around the pool"],"steps":["Assess the cause and whether it's still moving","Rout and seal, inject or stitch across the crack","Patch and refinish"],"note":"If the movement behind a crack is still active, a repair on its own will fail. The cause has to be addressed first."},
"spall":{"sev":"assess","title":"Spalling & rust staining","see":"Concrete breaking away from the surface, often with brown rust streaks below. Exposed or corroding steel is a warning sign.","causes":["Corroding reinforcing steel with too little concrete cover","Water entering cracks, then freeze–thaw"],"steps":["Cut back to sound concrete with square edges","Clean and protect the exposed steel","Patch with repair mortar and refinish"],"note":"Rust bleeding from concrete means steel is involved. Have it assessed before refinishing over it."},
"delam":{"sev":"repair","title":"Delamination (hollow spots)","see":"Areas where the finish has separated from the shell. They sound hollow when tapped and may bubble, ring-crack or flake.","causes":["Loss of bond between finish and shell","Preparation or application issues","Age and repeated freeze–thaw"],"steps":["Sound the surface and mark hollow areas","Remove to sound substrate","Bond coat and new finish"],"note":"Finishing over hollow areas tends to fail again. Widespread delamination usually means a full chip-out and new finish."},
"peel":{"sev":"repair","title":"Peeling & blistering paint","see":"Paint lifting in flakes or bubbles, exposing older coats or bare concrete underneath.","causes":["Incompatible coatings applied over each other","Moisture or groundwater pressure behind the coating","Poor surface preparation","Too many layers built up over the years"],"steps":["Identify the existing coating","Remove failing layers by abrasive blasting","Repair, prepare and apply a two-part epoxy system"],"note":"New paint over failing paint inherits its problems. The existing coating has to come off before anything goes on top."},
"tile":{"sev":"repair","title":"Tile & coping damage","see":"Cracked, loose or missing waterline tile, and coping stones that rock, crack or have open joints.","causes":["Freeze–thaw at the waterline","Deck movement pushing on the coping","Lost bond under tile or coping"],"steps":["Remove loose and damaged pieces","Repair the substrate and bond beam if needed","Reset or replace with pool-rated materials, then seal the deck joint"],"note":"Loose coping can be a trip hazard and lets water behind the bond beam. Repair it before the next freeze."},
"craze":{"sev":"cosmetic","title":"Craze & hairline cracks","see":"Fine, map-like cracks confined to the surface finish.","causes":["Drying shrinkage of the finish","Curing conditions during application","Surface wear over time"],"steps":["Confirm the cracks are only in the finish","Monitor for widening","Address at the next refinish"],"note":"Hairlines in the finish are usually cosmetic. If they widen, offset or reopen, have them assessed."},
"stain":{"sev":"cosmetic","title":"Staining","see":"Discolouration on the finish — brown or reddish streaks are often metal; green, brown or dark blotches are often organic.","causes":["Metals in fill water or from corroding fittings","Leaves and organic debris","Water chemistry"],"steps":["Identify the stain type","Treat with the right chemistry","Fix the source"],"note":"A quick test: vitamin C that lightens a stain points to metal; chlorine that lightens it points to organic."},
"scale":{"sev":"cosmetic","title":"Scale & efflorescence","see":"White or grey crust at the waterline or on tile, or white deposits seeping from grout and concrete.","causes":["High calcium hardness or pH","Evaporation at the waterline","Salts carried out of concrete and grout"],"steps":["Remove deposits with an appropriate method","Rinse and inspect the surface underneath","Rebalance the water"],"note":"Scale is mostly a water-chemistry problem. Removing it without balancing the water means it comes back."}}
Possible causes
Typical repair
As foundPreparedRepaired
Demonstration only. Every pool needs an on-site assessment before a repair is chosen.
A relief valve is a last line of defence, not a plan. Valves can clog or stick, so groundwater is checked before any concrete pool is drained — and the valve is inspected or replaced while it's empty.
Niagara's clay soils and spring water tables make this a real risk. See also pool drainage solutions.
05 From our job sites
Real pools. Real work.
Photos from Pool Busters projects across the region — finished pools, and the stages most customers never see.
Painted in ocean blue. A freeform concrete pool after its new coating, with the mosaic waterline band.
Prepped, painted and back in the water.Filled and back in the water.
33 photos
Before: failing paint on the walls and floor.After: sandblasted and coated in two-part epoxy.Finished in light blue epoxy.Before: worn, peeling paint and a long floor crack.After: prepped and painted, with the curved steps.After: an even, glossy new finish.Before: tile removal and replacement.Drained for the tile work.After: new tile, and back in the water.Before: a worn concrete interior.New white finish going on.Refinished in white, ready to fill.Prepped and painted: clear water over the new finish.Painted interior with mosaic-tiled entry steps.Wall opened up for a new skimmer.New skimmer set in fresh concrete.Steps rebuilt in repair mortar.Brick coping tops with a blue glass mosaic waterline.Waterline tile run along the coping.New tile at the skimmer tile line.Clean white interior, end to end.White interior with a green mosaic waterline.Finished and ready for water.Before: draining the deep end.Stairs mid-restoration: treads and risers rebuilt in repair mortar.Floor restoration under way on a drained concrete pool.Resurfacing the floor of a rectangular pool.Concrete repairs to the walls and floor.Liner partly removed, the concrete underneath repaired, then the liner refitted.Drained for assessment.Pouring concrete for new steps and a bench ledge.Forming curved steps.Built in concrete — steps and a full-length bench — then finished with a liner.
06 Commercial pool restoration
Larger pools. The same standard.
For hotels, condominiums and condo boards, apartment buildings, property managers and facility operators — with the equipment, crew and experience to take on larger restoration projects.
Deck depth markings show the shallow and deep points and breaks in slope. Example layout — markings follow your facility's requirements.
Commercial pool sandblasting and repainting
Premium two-part epoxy applications
Commercial waterline tile installation and restoration
Depth, lane and safety markings
Structural repairs
Interior resurfacing
Complete commercial pool restoration and rehabilitation
Assessment A site visit and condition report for your board or manager.
Scope & schedule Work planned around your closure window and residents.
Restoration Preparation, repairs, finishes and markings.
Cure & reopening Full cure before filling, with time allowed for the public health unit's reopening notice and inspection.
Not sure what your pool needs? Answer a few questions
08 Questions
Concrete pool restoration, answered.
Why sandblast a pool before painting it?
A new coating can only hold as well as the surface beneath it. Pressure-washing removes loose flakes but leaves weakly bonded paint, incompatible layers and contamination behind. Abrasive blasting removes failing coatings down to sound concrete and leaves a clean profile, so repairs can be made and a two-part epoxy system can bond properly.
How long does epoxy pool paint last?
It depends on preparation, the product, water chemistry and use. Our premium two-part epoxy systems are selected for a target service life of up to 10 years under suitable conditions. That's a target, not a guarantee — balanced water and proper care make the biggest difference.
What's the difference between marcite and marbelite?
Both are traditional marble-based pool plasters. Marcite is white cement and marble dust; "marbelite" is a common trade name in Ontario for marble-based pool plaster. They have a smooth, matte finish and typically last around 7–12 years with good water chemistry.
What waterline tile holds up to Niagara winters?
Impervious glass and porcelain mosaics rated for submerged pool use, set on a properly prepared substrate with pool-rated setting materials and grout. Most waterline tile failures start with water getting behind the tile and freezing.
What is a bond beam, and why does it fail?
It's the thickened, reinforced concrete ring at the top of the pool wall that carries the coping and tile. Water through failed joints or tile freezes and expands, and deck movement pushes on it. Repair means removing deteriorated concrete, treating or adding steel and rebuilding it — then fixing the joint that let the water in.
Can I drain my concrete pool myself?
We don't recommend it without an assessment. A full pool's water helps hold it down; when it's empty, groundwater can push the shell upward and crack it — a real risk in Niagara's clay soils, especially in spring and after heavy rain.
What does a hydrostatic relief valve do?
It's a one-way valve in the pool floor. If groundwater pressure under an empty pool is higher than the water inside, it opens and lets groundwater in to relieve the pressure. Valves can clog or stick, so they're inspected or replaced when a pool is drained.
Can underwater lighting be added to an older concrete pool?
Usually, yes. Existing lights can often be upgraded to LED, and new lights can be added with concrete modifications. Electrical work is completed by a licensed electrical contractor with ESA notification and inspection.
Do you restore commercial pools?
Yes — sandblasting and epoxy repainting, waterline tile, depth, lane and safety markings, structural repairs and full rehabilitation for hotels, condominiums, apartment buildings and other facilities.
How much does concrete pool restoration cost?
It depends on the pool's size, condition and the finishes you choose, so we don't publish prices. Send photos and a few details and we'll arrange an on-site consultation.
Which areas do you serve?
St. Catharines, Niagara Falls, Welland, Fonthill, Pelham, Thorold, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Port Colborne, Fort Erie, Grimsby, Lincoln, West Lincoln, Wainfleet, Dunnville, Stoney Creek, Hamilton and surrounding communities.
